Catenary on your layouts

ac0catenary wrote:Cab: are you going to install the signal line on your catenary poles?

Yeah, i do plan to install signal lines on my poles, but i'm trying to do as much stuff at the same time as possible. I suppose i can add them tomorrow. When i get the next two bridges built, i will try to have all the grab irons punched out, and hopefully more of the Evergreen angle pieces will be available for making angle braces.

so far, the only thing i can't find is the mylar film for the rivet details.

For lining up inclined catenary its almost trial and error. I use the Y bracket and have a AEM7 and GG-1 (shortest to longest tracking) on the track I'm stringing catenary to gauge the sweet spot between the two. Thats my technique
These photos show wire span supported catenary, pull off wires and feeders. This section is in front of the stations so no High tension lines are present.

That's my plan. The only annoying thing is the Bachman HHP-8 Pantograph shoes are very small in width. I worry they won't track well.

I finally recieved two IHP silverliner IVs

That means mine should arrive soon. I plan to paint it as Reading/SEPTA 9019, i already got the SEPTA "meatball" decals, and the Reading decals are on order. I actually have several extras. If i like how these express kits work out, i will probably order more. I'm thinking of making at least one more Reading unit, and then several Penn Central ones, and if i have money to spare, additional reading ones (4 each is the goal). Should keep me busy until the Arrow IIs and re-run Arrow IIIs show up.

what kind of paint did you use?

green_elite_cab wrote:
Yeah, i do plan to install signal lines on my poles, but i'm trying to do as much stuff at the same time as possible. I suppose i can add them tomorrow. When i get the next two bridges built, i will try to have all the grab irons punched out, and hopefully more of the Evergreen angle pieces will be available for making angle braces.

so far, the only thing i can't find is the mylar film for the rivet details.

wow details with the rivets are you planning to adding the rain cap aswell .. Ive been looking for rain caps for the poles and no luck.

green_elite_cab wrote: That's my plan. The only annoying thing is the Bachman HHP-8 Pantograph shoes are very small in width. I worry they won't track well.

HHP and the AEM7 sweet spot is in the middle of the rail because the pantograpgh is centered of the tracks. The problems are the E60 "middle pant" and the gg-1 on tight curves and switches The GG-1 pantograph is a pain in the azz on radii smaller that 24" and might require and pantograph slidder extension. I have them on a few of my Gs for sanity..just in case ... The key is that you dont want the wire to track outside of the pantograph supports any where near the "bent part of the slidder" It may look fine when the loco is still but when its moving it may wander and it might snag and that is a sound u dont want to hear. Some European modellers who dont run off the wire lock the pants in a position just before the wire leaving a gap so no snags ever can occur.

green_elite_cab wrote:
That means mine should arrive soon. I plan to paint it as Reading/SEPTA 9019, i already got the SEPTA "meatball" decals, and the Reading decals are on order. I actually have several extras. If i like how these express kits work out, i will probably order more. I'm thinking of making at least one more Reading unit, and then several Penn Central ones, and if i have money to spare, additional reading ones (4 each is the goal). Should keep me busy until the Arrow IIs and re-run Arrow IIIs show up.

what kind of paint did you use?

When did you order your SLV4? I ordered mine 6 weeks ago. anyway I hate the new septa rainbow scheme so im using the 80's square septa logo but i was thinking of doing a RDG old Meat Ball unit. I hope that one day IHP will make Appropriate MU couplers and Pilots/cowcatchers details for these cars and other MU cars. yeah RDG Silverliners had cowcatchers. and kadee couplers just dont look right with MU equipment.
The paint I used is Rustoleum chrome, which i originally bought for my old camaro but it looked more like stainless steel instead of chrome. Its shiny but not too shiny.

Hi guys,

Steve, you sure got those cars built and painted quickly! But then, I guess, that's the Express Series for you!

If you want the correct pilots for the SIlverliner IVs, IHP has the PC style pilots and the RDG cowcatcher pilots. The PC pilots mount to the Kadee coupler box. The RDG pilot mounts to the truck, as per the prototype, but it's configured to fit our GSI metal truck, so if you want it to fit another type of truck, you'll have to do a little work. Contact me if you need them, I will make them available separately for you guys for a small charge. The SEPTA block logo decals are in stock, too. I also am not crazy about the new paint scheme they've been in for the last ten years or so, I think it makes them look like MARC cars, and they're not MARC cars. However, I may do a short run of decals for them, anyway.

HO Silverliner IV kits have been slow to produce, more moulds are being poured so we can make more of them faster. Also, a Silverliner V update: the first HO Silverliner V shells will be cast today, and I have started work on an N scale version. A short run of nonpowered kits for both scales (with decals) will be available this summer in advance of the production run of RTR models for the holidays, so you can be among the first to have HO Silverliner Vs on your layout. More info on availability to come.

Thanks,

Mike Bartel
IHP
http://ihphobby.tripod.com

ac0catenary wrote:
wow details with the rivets are you planning to adding the rain cap aswell .. Ive been looking for rain caps for the poles and no luck.

If it can be added, I'd like to add it at some point. I would have done more work on it today, but i got held up by silly things. tomorrow i have no plans so we'll see what i can build. I'm almost thinking of trying to get more RTV silicone and making a super sprue of them, though i suppose by the time i made enough rain caps to make a large mold, i'd already have enough. I'll see how it goes. I pretty much planned to make them individually for now.

HHP and the AEM7 sweet spot is in the middle of the rail because the pantograpgh is centered of the tracks. The problems are the E60 "middle pant" and the gg-1 on tight curves and switches The GG-1 pantograph is a pain in the azz on radii smaller that 24" and might require and pantograph slidder extension. I have them on a few of my Gs for sanity..just in case ... The key is that you dont want the wire to track outside of the pantograph supports any where near the "bent part of the slidder" It may look fine when the loco is still but when its moving it may wander and it might snag and that is a sound u dont want to hear. Some European modellers who dont run off the wire lock the pants in a position just before the wire leaving a gap so no snags ever can occur.

yeah, this is going to be a problem on my layout, i was banking on more GG1s. I'm guessing the E44s and E33s will handle it well, their pans are also over the trucks.

When did you order your SLV4? I ordered mine 6 weeks ago. anyway I hate the new septa rainbow scheme so im using the 80's square septa logo but i was thinking of doing a RDG old Meat Ball unit. I hope that one day IHP will make Appropriate MU couplers and Pilots/cowcatchers details for these cars and other MU cars. yeah RDG Silverliners had cowcatchers. and kadee couplers just dont look right with MU equipment.
The paint I used is Rustoleum chrome, which i originally bought for my old camaro but it looked more like stainless steel instead of chrome. Its shiny but not too shiny.

I ordered it the same time you did, hopefully it will get here soon. as far as the cow catchers go, i didn't even notice them until a few weeks ago when someone pointed them out to me in a photo. Its weird to think a 1970s MU would have a cow catcher in there. I heard Kato had japanese MU couplers that looked "close enough" to american ones that you could use them as a stand in, but i'm not sure how great they are.

someone used them on their Pacific Electric cars here
http://www.trolleyville.com/tv/school/h ... ndex.shtml

I'm using a undercoat of gloss black with alclad. the gloss black actually creates a smoother surface than the plastic itself, and makes everything shine more mirror like. I did this with my Arrow III MU, and it got the looks down EXACTLY. I just ordered reading diamonds from Champs, so we'll see how they look when they get here.

well, i only made some minor detail additions to the catenary structures i have built, but tommorow i'm going to get a few more bridges together, and hopefully before the summer is out, the sections photoed bellow will be under wire.

how are those pantograph's mounted on the E33's? Are they similar to the E60? I want to replace mine on the E60's along with the electrical stuff. All dry rotted and was breaking apart. model is like 20 years old.

Steve F45 wrote:how are those pantograph's mounted on the E33's? Are they similar to the E60? I want to replace mine on the E60's along with the electrical stuff. All dry rotted and was breaking apart. model is like 20 years old.

first up, i think you mean E44s, as the E33s have diamond pantographs. that said, only the pantographs on the E44 are similar. in any event, they aren't worth ripping the pans off (for the price of an E44, you could buy several more new E60 models).

I took a look at the various E60 parts i have around. most of my E60s are much older than 20 years and are fine, i'm not sure whats wrong with yours.

The bachmann E60CP pieces might work, but they'll look a little small on the American GK/Walthers kits you have. their pantographs also need work, and the clips aren't very good.

How much of your original parts are left? if you still have the insulators, you could probably make your own roof details. they aren't terribly difficult to make with plastic and brass strip, and i can draw up plans for them. Sommefeldt 968 pantographs look pretty close (perhaps they are a bit short, most european pantographs are), but the Faively type on the E60s are not hard to scratchbuild (unlike other pantographs), as they are not that complex.

the truth is that you're going to have to bit the bullet and do some work, as there really aren't any easy choices other than finding a parts bag on Ebay.

I do have a spare set of alco pantographs in ho for an e44 if it helps

check your PM

looks like you lucked out! if you still need roof details, i may still be able to help you out.

Does anyone have the actual dimensions for the Milwaukee Electric Railroad "Pull-off's" ??? Any info would help! Thanks!

oscale wrote:Does anyone have the actual dimensions for the Milwaukee Electric Railroad "Pull-off's" ??? Any info would help! Thanks!

I do, somewhere deep in my collection od docuements. give me some time to dig it up. I know there is a website with the info, but it has a misleading title about steam railroad elecctrification, but almost totally covers MILW stuff.

I am hoping you can help me. I think all of your catenary looks great, but all the info and "how to" articles are for HO. I am trying to model a Gscale diaroma in 1:29 scale including PRR K style catenary. The problem is I live in Ohio. There are lots of pictures of the electrified system overall but I have found nothing of the K style supports. Specifically the horizontal member and the angle braces and how they all connect. 
Do you have any close up pictures of these details? Any dimensions?

Thanks
Brian 

Briantfowler wrote:I am hoping you can help me. I think all of your catenary looks great, but all the info and "how to" articles are for HO. I am trying to model a Gscale diaroma in 1:29 scale including PRR K style catenary. The problem is I live in Ohio. There are lots of pictures of the electrified system overall but I have found nothing of the K style supports. Specifically the horizontal member and the angle braces and how they all connect. 
Do you have any close up pictures of these details? Any dimensions?

Thanks
Brian 

I don't have exact dimensions for the structural shapes. However, I can give you an idea of how they connect.

Generally, the Horizontal H-beams are smaller than the poles themselves on tangents. They are slightly thicker on curves, and as thick as the poles over interlockings and complex areas.

The Sag Brace (the "V" in the "K") consists of two angles riveted together to form a "T". This is horizontal for 2' in the very center of the horizontal beam. The ends of the sag brace connect to the poles 7' above the horizontal beams. For 2-3 track catenary structures, there is a smaller "T" about midway between the center of the sag brace and the pole. Larger structures may have additional connecting braces.

On the prototype, there are gusset plates welded to the poles and horizontal beam where the Sag Brace connects, which fit between the angles of the "T".

Thanks that is the best info yet. Are the Angels riveted their entire length making a T? We're the columns always solid H beams, or were some built up riveted plate steal and angels, like what would have been used in bridge construction around 1900?
In large scale there are two philosophies of modeling. Those that follow the ten foot rule (if it looks good enough from ten feet away), and the rivet counters. Since I am building a diaroma I want these to be perfect.