well, i added the "K" to the K-braced bridges. I'm going to make 4-6 more poles. Once i get two more bridges up, i can start laying down some of the wire in between.
I haven't added the wire cross spans (i want to do them all at the same time, rather than having to switch gears between structures). I also haven't added any details to any of the other poles, such as the grab irons, angle braces and insulators. I figure it would be best to wait until just before installation to add these details, so that they don't get damaged while under construction.
I did temporarily stand them up in their intended places for some photos.
a Pair of E33s run "under wire" (not yet, but i had to stage the shot, couldn't help myself).
I cut the horizontal cross brace to the desired length (37 feet in this case) and let the sag brace be a little longer so that i didn't end up "short" on material. I bent it following a template i made (though not exact, just close enough for the time being), marked the pieces and soldered the sag brace centered on the cross piece. It is important to be careful when bending the "T" metal for the sag brace. avoid grasping this piece across the "vertical" portion of the T, instead grab the horizontal edge. This is because you might deform the metal (more than you have to).
I put shims to keep the cross beam level on the jig. The jig, pictured earlier, uses scrap wood and atlas track nails to hold the pieces at right angles. Both the cross beam and the pole were tinned ahead of time. for some reason, the first time around, the solder wouldn't take until i used a 120 watt soldering gun, but so far, a 40-watt iron seems to have worked everywhere else, including this joint on other bridges.
The sag braces continue to be a source of trouble. it would be difficult cut them ahead of time, because as said earlier, if you ended up short, you'd have to start over. At the same time, there is no real easy way to cut the tee except with a dremel tool, and its hard to line that up. I've been getting it right so far, but it always feels like luck. The razor saw is no good for this, and flush cutters still deform the piece.
so far, the system i've been using is first cut as close as i can with the dremel, then use the flush cutters, then grind the end level with the sides of a dremel cut-off disk. I only grind it for a split second, so that 1). it doesn't get to hot, and 2.) to frequently check to see if it is properly lined up. after a minute, i usually get it down to size and it fits in nicely.
Thats it for now. Hopefully, when i get some more bridges built in this basic fashion, i'll go and add more details to them.
Elite Juice Jack Modeler.