• My new Skemil Railroad, Western Division

  • Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.

Moderators: 3rdrail, stilson4283, Otto Vondrak

  by daylight4449
 
December 2010 Skemil Railroad Budget
Avalible Funds: $600

rolling stock:
-Heavyweight 28-1 Parlor Car, Pullman
walthers rolling stock
$49.98
-Heavyweight 12-1 Sleeping Car, Pullman
walthers rolling stock
$49.98
-total:$99.96

structures:
-3 stall roundhouse
atlas
$21.98
-Passenger Depot
atlas
$12.98
-maywood station
atlas
$15.98
-lumber yard and office
atlas
$15.98
-passenger station platform
atlas
$9.98
coal tipple
walthers
$12.98
-total:$89.99

replacement parts:
-NWSL axle gear replacement for athearn genisis USRA 2-8-2
part no. 2147-6
$9.95

Track:
-No. 8 turnout
Peco (8 total)
12.98 each
$103.88 total
-Turntable
atlas
$12.98
-total:$116.86

Locomotives:
-2-6-2, southern railway
bachmann
$100.00

Final Costs:$416.78
-sales tax:%6.25
  by daylight4449
 
new developments! my bio teacher assigned us a project to dipect a specific period of the earth. because i'm doing the quartenary period, (modern times) i'm going to do a 2ftx2ft diorama of a river setting. it's due wednesday, and this means i'll have to use my avalible scenery supplies ( :( ), but i plan to recycle the diorama into my layout to serve as the portion of the "south river" between skemil and court royale that will be crossed by a bridge. no train related stuff will be present in the diorama for the project, but once graded, it'll be the first fully sceniced part of the skemil railroad. :-D
  by Komachi
 
daylight4449 wrote:Table is larger than expected, 4 by 12. table is complete, but needs to be picked up ...
daylight4449 wrote: ... the table has finally been decided on: two 2.5x10 foot sections will form an l shape which will act as the layout's "superstructure".
daylight4449 wrote: Table is larger than expected, 4 by 12.
Being someone who has been doing this for about 23 (almost 24!) years now, I can appreciate how a model railroad can change in size and scope over a period of time, but I'm currious to know what the current size of the benchwork and/or table top is of your layout. Is it monolithic (one-piece), or did you build your four separate modules, as you mentioned above? If you haven't done a whole lot of work on the layout yet, and can still modify the framing and tabletops, I'd reccomend going modular. It's easier to move a layout in pieces and put it back together than to have to tear it apart and start all over again (no, not as fun as building a new layout, but it saves a whole lot of time that way).

My next layout, like the two before it, will be modular. An On30 layout built on three modules two feet wide by four feet long. This way, if I move, my layout will move with me and if I want to take it to train shows and display it, I can. Just something to consider before you get too far along with track and landscaping.

daylight4449 wrote: ... construction on the layout benchwork is supposed to start on 9-18-2010, and once that is done, i will push to have all the scenery in place before any of the track goes down
May I ask why you're going to do scenery BEFORE laying track? The majority of us tend to lay track and wire the layout first, that way we can troubleshoot any bugs that crop up along the way. Not so easy to do when you're working around trees and hills... or inside tunnels, etc. I would stronly urge you to lay track and wire the layout FIRST, then start slinging plaster and casting rock molds, adding trees... reticulating splines, and whatnot. Believe me, you'll be a happier camper doing so.

daylight4449 wrote: new developments! my bio teacher assigned us a project to dipect a specific period of the earth. because i'm doing the quartenary period, (modern times) i'm going to do a 2ftx2ft diorama of a river setting. it's due wednesday, and this means i'll have to use my avalible scenery supplies ( :( ), but i plan to recycle the diorama into my layout to serve as the portion of the "south river" between skemil and court royale that will be crossed by a bridge. no train related stuff will be present in the diorama for the project, but once graded, it'll be the first fully sceniced part of the skemil railroad. :-D
Then you're off to a rolling start! Recycling is a good thing... especially when you can kill two birds in one go (high marks in school and a senic portion of your layout).


Now...

I know you're in a rush to get this thing completed, but I, like others, will urge you to slow down and take your time with it. You'll be happier with the results if you take your time and get things done right the first time. Rome was not built in a day, nor was the Virginia & Ohio, the Allegheny Midland, the Gorre & Daphited... or any other masterpiece of model railroading. It took the guys who built them YEARS to construct their layouts.

Heck, the layout I'm building for a charity event is going to take me MONTHS to build, even though it's only a 4x8 layout. Not only is my time to work on it limited, but I want to have the time to make sure I do a quality job on it.

So, take a deep breath, slow down and take your time. Enjoy the process of building your layout, or you're going to be spending a lot of time fixing mistakes later.

And remember one of the Mantras of model railroading (that used to grace the banner of Model Railroader magazine)...

MODEL RAILROADING IS FUN!!!
  by daylight4449
 
the layout will indeed be four modules, that i can be certian of. to start, only two will be constructed, forming an L shape. once the first half is finished, it will have a total of 50 square feet, each table measuring 2.5ftx10ft. once finished, it will measure 150 square feet
  by Komachi
 
daylight4449 wrote: the layout will indeed be four modules, that i can be certian of. to start, only two will be constructed, forming an L shape. once the first half is finished, it will have a total of 50 square feet, each table measuring 2.5ftx10ft. once finished, it will measure 150 square feet
Okay... stupid question here, but how do you get 4x10 out of 2 times 2.5x10? 2.5 and 2.5 equals five (to make a 5x10 tabletop when put together) last time I checked. Or, am I misreading your dimensions?

Another thing... I would reccomend cutting the modules down, again, to six or eight feet long, that way they will fit in the back of a pick-up truck or SUV fairly easily, whereas you will need to rent a truck or trailer to haul ten-foot modules, should you ever move them. 2.5 is a good width, as they will fit through a standard door with no problems. Just my .02, but it's YOUR layout. Look forward to updates as work progresses.
  by daylight4449
 
daylight4449 wrote: new developments! my bio teacher assigned us a project to dipect a specific period of the earth. because i'm doing the quartenary period, (modern times) i'm going to do a 2ftx2ft diorama of a river setting. it's due wednesday, and this means i'll have to use my avalible scenery supplies ( :( ), but i plan to recycle the diorama into my layout to serve as the portion of the "south river" between skemil and court royale that will be crossed by a bridge. no train related stuff will be present in the diorama for the project, but once graded, it'll be the first fully sceniced part of the skemil railroad. :-D
well, real railroad didn't do the track before the scenery. besides, this will allow me to put the tracks in such a way to make it look like certian landmarks were avoided. besides, last time i tried doing scenery after track, i wound up with moldy track.
  by daylight4449
 
Komachi wrote:
daylight4449 wrote: the layout will indeed be four modules, that i can be certian of. to start, only two will be constructed, forming an L shape. once the first half is finished, it will have a total of 50 square feet, each table measuring 2.5ftx10ft. once finished, it will measure 150 square feet
Okay... stupid question here, but how do you get 4x10 out of 2 times 2.5x10? 2.5 and 2.5 equals five (to make a 5x10 tabletop when put together) last time I checked. Or, am I misreading your dimensions?

Another thing... I would reccomend cutting the modules down, again, to six or eight feet long, that way they will fit in the back of a pick-up truck or SUV fairly easily, whereas you will need to rent a truck or trailer to haul ten-foot modules, should you ever move them. 2.5 is a good width, as they will fit through a standard door with no problems. Just my .02, but it's YOUR layout. Look forward to updates as work progresses.
ya, made slight changes. upped from 4ftx10ft to 5ftx10ft, giving the 2.5ftx10ft sections
  by Otto Vondrak
 
daylight4449 wrote:well, real railroad didn't do the track before the scenery.
This isn't real, this is a model, inside a house, a controlled environment.
besides, this will allow me to put the tracks in such a way to make it look like certian landmarks were avoided.
Stop wasting your time. You plan the track and the scenery at the same time. You lay track and wire it, make sure everything work, then you build scenery. Otherwise, you will damage the scenery as you lay track, and you will find it harder to install the track after scenery is down.
besides, last time i tried doing scenery after track, i wound up with moldy track.
Then you were using some sort of non-traditional materials that were not meant for scenery.

Stop guessing: There are plenty of great books you can get from your library that will show you how to build a railroad step-by-step. It is time well spent to learn how to do it correctly the first time rather than going back over and over to correct mistakes. I can suggest some titles for you that your library could get for you if you'd rather not spend the money to buy them yourselves.

-otto-
  by daylight4449
 
Otto Vondrak wrote:
daylight4449 wrote:well, real railroad didn't do the track before the scenery.
This isn't real, this is a model, inside a house, a controlled environment.
besides, this will allow me to put the tracks in such a way to make it look like certian landmarks were avoided.
Stop wasting your time. You plan the track and the scenery at the same time. You lay track and wire it, make sure everything work, then you build scenery. Otherwise, you will damage the scenery as you lay track, and you will find it harder to install the track after scenery is down.
besides, last time i tried doing scenery after track, i wound up with moldy track.
Then you were using some sort of non-traditional materials that were not meant for scenery.

Stop guessing: There are plenty of great books you can get from your library that will show you how to build a railroad step-by-step. It is time well spent to learn how to do it correctly the first time rather than going back over and over to correct mistakes. I can suggest some titles for you that your library could get for you if you'd rather not spend the money to buy them yourselves.

-otto-
well, if woodland scenics arent the norm then i don't know. the mold was due to my brother spraying water on it before we left for our new hampshire vacation, and i found the mold when we got back
  by Cadet57
 
daylight4449 wrote:
Otto Vondrak wrote:
daylight4449 wrote:well, real railroad didn't do the track before the scenery.
This isn't real, this is a model, inside a house, a controlled environment.
besides, this will allow me to put the tracks in such a way to make it look like certian landmarks were avoided.
Stop wasting your time. You plan the track and the scenery at the same time. You lay track and wire it, make sure everything work, then you build scenery. Otherwise, you will damage the scenery as you lay track, and you will find it harder to install the track after scenery is down.
besides, last time i tried doing scenery after track, i wound up with moldy track.
Then you were using some sort of non-traditional materials that were not meant for scenery.

Stop guessing: There are plenty of great books you can get from your library that will show you how to build a railroad step-by-step. It is time well spent to learn how to do it correctly the first time rather than going back over and over to correct mistakes. I can suggest some titles for you that your library could get for you if you'd rather not spend the money to buy them yourselves.

-otto-
well, if woodland scenics arent the norm then i don't know. the mold was due to my brother spraying water on it before we left for our new hampshire vacation, and i found the mold when we got back
Don't spray water on your track. Not only will you invite mold, you're going to ruin track. Seriously. Lay track and wire first. Then scenery. It'll be much easier to do. Trust us on this.
  by daylight4449
 
Good news everyone! now, i don't know when this happened, but my mom just bought 15 stryafoam blocks off ebay. why ebay, i have no idea, but this will mean i can start construction of the first building, the roundhouse, as soon as it the blocks arrive
  by Komachi
 
Styrafoam blocks?

As in four foot by eight foot sheets of extruded styrafoam insulation? Or something different?


Also, silly question time again, but, what was your brother doing spraying your layout with water? Water + model railroad = bad things happening.

Although, if I'm not mistaken (I may be, somebody correct me if I'm wrong), there's a ballasting technique that calls for LIGHTLY SPRITZING the track and ballast with water before you use an eye-dropper to apply a 50/50 mix of water and white glue (with a drop of dish detergent to make the mixture flow better). NOTE: the key words here are LIGHTLY SPRITZING, not "super soaking" it. I seem to remember having done it on one of my past layouts with decent results... AND MY TRACK DIDN'T MOLD!

But, that was many moons ago. Otto and the others may prove me wrong on that.

Regardless, large quantities of water on your layout is a bad thing... a VERY BAD THING. How much water did he spray on your layout anyway?
  by daylight4449
 
Komachi wrote:Styrafoam blocks?

As in four foot by eight foot sheets of extruded styrafoam insulation? Or something different?


Also, silly question time again, but, what was your brother doing spraying your layout with water? Water + model railroad = bad things happening.

Although, if I'm not mistaken (I may be, somebody correct me if I'm wrong), there's a ballasting technique that calls for LIGHTLY SPRITZING the track and ballast with water before you use an eye-dropper to apply a 50/50 mix of water and white glue (with a drop of dish detergent to make the mixture flow better). NOTE: the key words here are LIGHTLY SPRITZING, not "super soaking" it. I seem to remember having done it on one of my past layouts with decent results... AND MY TRACK DIDN'T MOLD!

But, that was many moons ago. Otto and the others may prove me wrong on that.

Regardless, large quantities of water on your layout is a bad thing... a VERY BAD THING. How much water did he spray on your layout anyway?
the 7inX10in blocks you can get at walmart.
  by daylight4449
 
paint scheme and logo finished. will upload to my facebook page monday
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