• SEPTA Modeler: My Repaints And Paint Jobs

  • Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.

Moderators: 3rdrail, stilson4283, Otto Vondrak

  by N-Trizzy2609
 
Hello All. After much deciding, I was originally make a Northeast Corridor layout in New Jersey but I changed my mind to a SEPTA layout with the Northeast Corridor, Fox Chase and Cynwyd Lines. My favorite part of the hobby is repaints and painting kits from scratch. As of right now I own 4 'Septa' RDCs which are train who stand in for my future electric fleet. I do have a Silverliner II in progress. Anyways enjoy the pics.

NJ Transit Multilevel project:
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SEPTA Silverliner II:
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What use to be a Phase IV P40 now a Phase V P42 Sold to my friend for $50:
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All repaints.
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SEPTA SD45-PHT:
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More pics to come....
  by AntonioFP45
 
N-Trizzy,

Good to see you making progress. Hope you don't mind he questions, but what happened to car #217? The headlight assembly appears damaged from heat. Of course this can be prototypical as passenger equipment in the northeast gets quite a bit of damage while in service.
  by N-Trizzy2609
 
The RPMS on my dremel were so high drilling the first hold it turn the plastic to like liquid and when i mad the second hole, it moved down the watery plastic and hardened like that. The other side (pantograph side) has better holes.
  by green_elite_cab
 
N-Trizzy2609 wrote:The RPMS on my dremel were so high drilling the first hold it turn the plastic to like liquid and when i mad the second hole, it moved down the watery plastic and hardened like that. The other side (pantograph side) has better holes.
Why would you use a Dremel tool? thats overkill my friend!

Now would be a good time to invest in a pin-vise. hand twisted drills are far superior for the work you want to do with those headlights. They may take a little while longer (cause you have to turn it by hand), but you get more precise holes and less damage to your model.


You should probably fill that in and replace it with a new headlight casting.
  by ApproachMedium
 
Boy! You need to get some Solvaset! Them decals are sittin there screamin to be hidden....
  by Otto Vondrak
 
ApproachMedium wrote:Boy! You need to get some Solvaset! Them decals are sittin there screamin to be hidden....
Agree on the Solvaset. Nice to see so much activity, but a little more care in applying decals will pay off immensely! Make sure you're applying decals to a smooth surface, use MicroSol and MicoSet or just Walther's Solvaset, and then seal with Dull Cote when dry overnight.

Keep sharing pictures of your progress!!

-otto-
  by green_elite_cab
 
Otto Vondrak wrote:
and then seal with Dull Cote when dry overnight.

Keep sharing pictures of your progress!!

-otto-
Don't seal with dullcote, it won't look right on a metallic silver finish. Crystal cote is better.
  by Crabman1130
 
green_elite_cab wrote:
Why would you use a Dremel tool? thats overkill my friend!

Now would be a good time to invest in a pin-vise. hand twisted drills are far superior for the work you want to do with those headlights. They may take a little while longer (cause you have to turn it by hand), but you get more precise holes and less damage to your model.
I'm not familiar with hand twist drills. Can you descride them and recommend a brand?
Thanks in advance.
  by ApproachMedium
 
Just go to your LHS and ask for a set of small drill bits and a pin vice. There really isnt a brand to look for. You can also usually find them at any large hobby or model train show like Greenbergs. There is usually a guy there selling just tools.
  by N-Trizzy2609
 
Thanks alot for the support guys.

Take a gander at the shops a see how busy I am at the second.
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SEPTA #217 and Amtrak #55 and 26 are being engine serviced for faulty wireing. #26 is being sold to my friend for $25
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What's suppose to be a dinning room table.
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Metro-North Boise Budd Cab
  by ApproachMedium
 
How are you applying that black and the red for the markers? Looks like its done by hand? Might want to try masking things off a bit first, or using a finer brush.
  by sullivan1985
 
Definitely use Walthers SolvaSet. I'm doing a "Modern Erie Lackawanna" fleet of SD80MACs and such. Used MicroSol on the first one. Decent results. Used SolvaSet on the rest and the difference is highly noticeable. I went over the first one and the decals look even better. You'll still have to pop some bubbles but the SolvaSet will hide any holes. Also, cut a bit closer to the decal. Get a pair of squizzers. They are excellent to trim after cutting them out of the sheet with an exacto.

My only other suggestion: get rid of those foot boards on your SPAX 66. Those began to disappear in the early 1970's.
  by Ken S.
 
sullivan1985 wrote:Definitely use Walthers SolvaSet. I'm doing a "Modern Erie Lackawanna" fleet of SD80MACs and such. Used MicroSol on the first one. Decent results. Used SolvaSet on the rest and the difference is highly noticeable. I went over the first one and the decals look even better. You'll still have to pop some bubbles but the SolvaSet will hide any holes. Also, cut a bit closer to the decal. Get a pair of squizzers. They are excellent to trim after cutting them out of the sheet with an exacto.

My only other suggestion: get rid of those foot boards on your SPAX 66. Those began to disappear in the early 1970's.
What foot boards?