After spending a marvelous week in North Carolina and enjoying all manner of fine fare, to include a visit to the world famous
Lexington Barbecue and
a special tour of ex-NH 553 Pullman Sleeper Pine Tree State (PPCX 800236) at the North Carolina Transportation Museum in Spencer, NC, we gathered up all of our belongings to return back to Boston (and eventually Maine) via the
Silver Star and then
Northeast Regional #166.
As with our trip south from BOS these itineraries stretch to the very fullest how far any given passenger can travel on Amtrak in a single day without requiring overnight travel. In short we were about to attempt a very high mileage trip, with a connection required at New York Penn Station on what was one of the single busiest travel days of the year for Amtrak. Having done it the first time traveling south (but in somewhat less crowded circumstances this did not appear to be a problem). The disadvantage this time was that we would be starting on a Long Distance train, originating on tracks not controlled by Amtrak and attempting to make a connection with a train that spent most of its mileage on or relatively close to the Northeast Corridor and was also free of the encumbrance of equipment that couldn't go above 110 MPH.
Mercifully, most of the above simply didn't dawn on me until we were on the train and rolling through the very southern reaches of Virginia.
Arrival at the train station in Raleigh for the morning boarding was uneventful. It was pleasing to be able to show up 20 minutes prior to departure and have few if any concerns about "making it". Had we been flying 'air' we would have had to be at the airport hours ahead of time, especially since we were traveling as a family. Seeing the station during the day made it all the more obvious why NCDOT and the City are going to replace it. Even with a glass and steel enclosure added on to the back of the station towards the tracks things were definitely very cramped. The station agent made plenty of clear announcements including letting everyone know that the train was running a few minutes behind schedule. Offers to check our luggage were understandably rescinded when we explained that we were going all the way to BOS. Interestingly we could have in fact checked our bags but they would have waited at NYP for
Northeast Regional #66.
As currently designed the RGH station (with the aforementioned glass and steel addition) was clearly meant for the era of "small Amtrak" when the service was poking along and no one was really paying attention to it. Call it the Amtrak of 2002, ten years ago just when the current growth trends were beginning and perhaps more importantly after a previous era of 10-15 years when the company temporarily lost its focus on quality of service. This humble and unpretentious station, kept clean and well maintained (at least in recent times) served its purpose largely as a place-mark for "railroad station here" during a very long period of time when even places like North Carolina (which is remarkably well served by Amtrak) lost interest in rail travel. Even on a regular day for travel it seemed quite likely that people would spill out from the main building and into the enclosure area which was essentially overflow waiting room space (but comfortably heated along with the rest of the building).
The
Silver Star arrived, perhaps 10-20 minutes late and upon arrival a very obvious "change of shift" between a large number of passengers who had been riding, many likely overnight, to get to RGH and a large number who would be riding from RGH to points north took place. Charmingly while the train was in the station an older couple who were riding in the Sleeper Cars stepped off onto the platform to get their picture taken with their car attendant who seemed more than happy to oblige with a sense of grace that recalled the legendary gentlemanly qualities of the old Pullman Porters. As with this situation and several others that I witnessed the Amtrak on board staff were quite simply very decent folks who were more than at ease with absolutely anyone riding their trains. They had few if any reservations about anyone for any reason and that happening in an age that is often described by some as "cynical" was deeply pleasing to see.
Once the train crew were ready we walked down the platform for what seemed like quite a ways (but probably wasn't more than four car lengths) to the boarding point. We were among the last to get on the train, luggage, kids and all after which we were given seats together (again...thanks to the staff) and then set off on our way back to Boston. The morning hours of the trip were quite comfortable and spent taking a few snoozes through the North Carolina and Virginia countryside and of course the usual leisurely pace through Ashland. Someone, I can't remember if it was the on board staff or conductors reported that the railroad was largely clear of freight trains that day and they anticipated an easy and likely close to on time arrival in Washington, D.C. Keeping the tracks clear of freight apparently wasn't the only trick CSX had up their sleeve that day. As we went through a couple of slow orders I noticed that every single time there was a MoW pickup truck from CSX parked wayside. On perhaps the second one I also noticed a MoW worker pickup his radio as soon as we passed him which shortly there after was met by a clear and unmistakable throttle application and increase in speed. So it appeared that CSX was doing their best to ensure Amtrak was going to have smooth running on that day in particular.
So after a while we arrive in Richmond (Staples Mill) (RVR) and then after what seems like an unusual wait I realize that we've probably been there longer than planned. It turns out the crew were having trouble getting a handicapped passenger in a power chair onto the train. At the same time on a track parallel to us a CSX manifest freight was idling in place. We sat for a while longer and suddenly the CSX engines start thundering and the freight starts to move as I think to myself, "Uh oh, we've just lost our slot." Figuring that we really might be toast I started doing some mental math on just exactly how tight our connection at New York Penn Station was going to be. Thankfully we still had time to give, however what had been a comfortable cushion was now turning into a cross platform or cross concourse shuffle.
Finally we pulled out of Richmond Staples Mill and proceeded up the track. Not thinking anything of it we were running "wrong iron" or northbound on the 'left' track. Sure enough about 20 minutes later (or less) we sprinted by the freight and perhaps a few miles after that crossed back over to "right iron" both literally and figuratively. CSX, it appeared was doing everything that they possibly could to keep us as close to running on schedule as they could and I for one was pretty impressed by this. By this time our lunch time reservation for the Diner Car had rolled around, this time in "Temonisa rebuild" #8510. I choose a chicken caesar salad and to my pleasant surprise was rewarded with some very nice cool, fresh and crisp lettuce along with the requisite accouterments of parmesan, croutons and dressing (Newman's Own, tableside). The 'Temonisa' rebuild diner are nice enough. The color scheme is pretty far outside anything you would expect on an American railroad, no question about that. But overall the effect is pleasant enough. The "Viewdiner" or Viewliner Diner design debuted on #8400
Indianapolis will without a doubt wipe away most memories of the Amtrak's "Heritage" Diners in the later years. And for those who might claim that the ambiance isn't important I can say with total certainty that I found dining in the Deutsche Bahn's "Bord Restaurant" on the ICE while rolling through Ulm many years ago to be a highly memorable experience indeed, despite the food itself being perhaps just "Good".
Here I must pause to recount my second memorable encounter with what has to be a legend within Amtrak "Corporate", the National Dining Car Receipt (Long Form). When I first met this colossus we were on our way south to Raleigh. It was almost breathtaking to say the least. Like seeing an endangered species alive in the wild. For those who are not familiar the "Heritage" in Amtrak's Dining Cars apparently doesn't merely extend to 'legacy' era quirks like one-of-a-kind HVAC systems or special parts no longer made anywhere else. No in fact this 'spirit' of tradition carries on in the Form of Forms which is used to record your meal choice for all posterity (in carbon copy triplicate no less) ensuring that many years from now young accountants in training searching through the basement at 60 Mass. Ave. will know that "Mr. O'Keefe, X
Coach Passenger, had the X
Caesar Salad with X
Other: 'Chicken' and X
Iced Tea to drink, and paid using X
Credit Card: 'Mastercard' on Train
92 on
11/24/12. These forms which are easily greater than 24'' in length are a bureaucrats dream. I was astounded at Amtrak's brash use of the finest in late 1950's printing technology which mind you had their own mechanically stamped stock control serial numbers as well. For reasons that I'm sure many others will be able to explain in plenty of detail Amtrak has up until now studiously avoided the use of electronic point of sale technology in their foodservice operations. Similar decisions, with all the good intentions in the world, were made with the ticketing process which also until just this year was largely processed by hand largely due in part to the perceived unreliability of mobile solutions reliant on intermittent broad-band wireless connections. To be perfectly fair I am certain there is plenty of reason to justify a business case in favor of 'using paper'. I was nonetheless impressed with just how much effort had been spent to create a form which was going to meet all of the operational and accounting needs for the Diner. Beasts such this one are few and far between anymore anywhere.
Unlike supper heading in to Raleigh this time we were seated with strangers who turned out to be some perfectly nice folks from Britain who were 'on tour' through America. Discussion ensued about their experience with Amtrak, which had been relatively good, and some of the troubles their fellow tour group travelers had experienced (luggage left behind in Kissimee, FL). These folks were on their way back to catch the Queen Mary 2 back "across the pond" from New York to Southampton. Overall very nice and without a doubt a pleasant experience.
Coming in to WAS we had fantastic views of the Capitol Dome and the rest of the City. Since it had been so many years since I had made this journey (close to 20) I had either forgotten or didn't realize that the views were going to be this good. In all fairness having spent a good amount of time in DC during my college years I knew the approaches across the Potomac by rail had pretty good views in general from riding the METRO. But they simply don't even begin to compare to the angles seen from the train, especially just prior to the First Street tunnel when you get an extended glimpse of the entire building from ground all the way up to the top of the dome.
I stepped off at WAS to stretch my legs and those of someone smaller than me. Our car attendant was more than happy to engage in some small talk. Turned out that he got called in as an Extra and was going to be stepping off at BAL to catch the southbound
Star (he was based out of Florida). The train that day was running 5 Amfleet IIs, the cafe and Diner and three very full sleeper cars. Supper reservations for coach passengers looked unlikely as the dining car crew was going to have all they could do just to feed the sleeper passengers and still be able to shutdown the car and go through inventories by the time they got to NYP.
Our potable water supply refilled we made our way north towards NYP. Passing through BAL our car (the last one) didn't even make the platform. Also at this point almost as if on cue I saw a consist of NJT EMU Arrow IIIs headed south for WAS. I instantly knew these were certainly "far from home", funny to think how these cars just 'fit right in' as if they belonged there. BAL to PHL was uneventful,
and then we left Philadelphia... where as described in my posts to the Thanksgiving Extras thread we were held up by yet another "law enforcement situation" (this time quite a bit more serious than last time). Problem being of course that we had now just consumed all of our remaining "pad" time for our transfer to #166 at New York Penn Station.
As it turned out everything was okay and #166 was behind us on our way in to NYP. I
did notice at the time that for an extended period while traveling through the tunnels there were no emergency lights, it was just pitch black outside the train which was kind of surprising and I'm guessing somehow related to the issues with the substation (maybe....).
As mentioned a very very helpful staff member from Station Services appeared practically out of nowhere while we were waiting on the concourse at NYP, kids and luggage in tow and made sure we got to the right platform. The rest of the trip after that was pretty uneventful. I had yet another crisp and fresh salad, this time from the cafe car, for supper and the train proceeded up the Connecticut coast picking up and dropping off its (mostly) load of college kids one college town after another. We arrived close to on time at a very very cold Boston South Station, which had doors open for passengers from the concourse but otherwise locked at all other entrances. I snuck away as usual to retrieve the car from Necco Street parking, just across the canal and we then made our way back to the Marriott in Revere for a few hours of sleep prior to returning to Maine.
I would to thank again all of the Amtrak staff both on board and at the stations who helped us out on our very long journey. I am very grateful still for all the kindness shown to my family. People like you make Amtrak the comfortable, safe and easy way to travel that it is everyday.