Would this work? (3rd rail question)

Would this sort of wiring scheme work? Where a 3 way switch would switch between the 3rd rail and track if needed. Then using the track as grounded/neutral.
I was thinking wiring a engine in this way with pickup shoes.

Well, if you're just doing this for just one "for fun" locomotive, I'd say you're adding needless complexity.

That said, if you really do plan to run a third rail electric, why not just make the third rail shoe match the polarity of the side of the rail its on? If the third rail is on the left, that shoe will connect to the same contacts and the left wheels. the right hand shoe will connect with the right hand wheels. As long as both polarities are available in the track, you should be able to run the trains, while still getting sparking from the third rail. THis would also allow you to run the locomotive outside of third rail territory, if for some reason you had to removed the third rail, or operate it elsewhere.

There would be no need for any fancy electrical switches (by the way, that isn't really a "Three way" switch, its a Single pole double throw, SPDT switch).

green_elite_cab wrote:Well, if you're just doing this for just one "for fun" locomotive, I'd say you're adding needless complexity.

That said, if you really do plan to run a third rail electric, why not just make the third rail shoe match the polarity of the side of the rail its on? If the third rail is on the left, that shoe will connect to the same contacts and the left wheels. the right hand shoe will connect with the right hand wheels. As long as both polarities are available in the track, you should be able to run the trains, while still getting sparking from the third rail. THis would also allow you to run the locomotive outside of third rail territory, if for some reason you had to removed the third rail, or operate it elsewhere.

There would be no need for any fancy electrical switches (by the way, that isn't really a "Three way" switch, its a Single pole double throw, SPDT switch).

And this is why i nearly failed my test on switches lol

By having the SPDT the power could alternate between either the track on that side or the 3rd rail.

But ill play around with this.

deandremouse wrote: And this is why i nearly failed my test on switches lol

By having the SPDT the power could alternate between either the track on that side or the 3rd rail.

But ill play around with this.

Yes, but this is unnecessary, unless you mean to have both rails be one polarity like the prototype (in which case, your drawing is wrong). If the tracks are maintaining polarity, there is no need for the switch, just leave the third rail and track on.

green_elite_cab wrote:

deandremouse wrote: And this is why i nearly failed my test on switches lol

By having the SPDT the power could alternate between either the track on that side or the 3rd rail.

But ill play around with this.

Yes, but this is unnecessary, unless you mean to have both rails be one polarity like the prototype (in which case, your drawing is wrong). If the tracks are maintaining polarity, there is no need for the switch, just leave the third rail and track on.

Will keep it live.

I'm still learning electrical installation lol.

If you are really running 3rd rail or want to,start reading ALOT about DCC and what are your $$$ limits,trust me go for show
and use track power because by the time your done layout might be worth more than house your in,I have only seen 2 working
overhead(catanery layouts)and the money involved wow its alot,Ive been to andy ruppo's PRR layout,He has a 4 track helix powered by overhead(Ithink it was code 100 rail)but after seeing that and he has atleast 10 years into it and its 1/4 way done
I cant remember his name that did the new haven layout,he might be the 1 you want to talk to

Well, there is no way third rail is as expensive as overhead Catenary.

All you need is a code of rail smaller than what you have on the tracks, and a way to mount it. Model Memories sells under running third rail hanger kits, but even these aren't as expensive "per foot" as the catenary.

If you wanted to make it on your own, you could use dowels with notches cut in them to hold the third rail (would look just like the insulators in my NJ Transit Electrical Operating Instructions), and then from the there, the only annoying thing I can predict is making the brackets and safety covers.

Third Rail pickups would be a different story, but you'd have to come up with those anyway.