• WARNING: Proto 2000 GP-38-2 Issues

  • Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.

Moderators: 3rdrail, stilson4283, Otto Vondrak

  by Mike Roque
 
Someone asked about the electrical problem with these on another list, and I thought I would also let you folks know about this problem and another related issue with the instructions regarding shell removal:

I just picked one up in Springfield this weekend, and it had the problem…

Basically, the DCC plug is wired up incorrectly… I didn’t note the original configuration, but I did notice that one or more lights were connected to the same pin as the track or the motor (Can’t remember which). Tony’s Train Exchange says this configuration will program OK, but when you try to move on the main, it will blow the decoder.

However, it’s no big deal to properly reconnect the wires to the DCC plug. Just find a diagram of the NMRA plug pinout and use the markings on the loco’s plug (P1, P2, etc.) to connect the wires to the correct pins. The lamps are 1.5V, so you’ll need to replace them anyway…you can use that opportunity to wire the plug correctly.

ALSO: The included instructions for removing the shell are VERY unclear about how to do it properly. I’ll save you all potential trouble by telling you that the two screws you need to remove are hidden above the trucks (The diagram and instructions do NOT make this clear AT ALL). Also, grab the shell and walkway by the air tanks (The instructions say to grab it “between the grills”. What does that mean??). Basically, if it’s hard to get the shell off, you’re not doing it correctly.

After sorting all this out, though, I must say that the detail is EXCELLENT and the drive is VERY SMOOTH…to be expected from P2K.

Good luck!
Last edited by Mike Roque on Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:35 am, edited 1 time in total.

  by CIOR
 
I have a couple of these units. 2 from the first release (off the ship) and another from a later on group. The first 2 are fine. all the wires are correct, blah-blah and so on. BUT, the other engine isn't. I simply hardwired it up and went from there.
I guess with the latest Atlas snafu on the C40-9W, with it being wired up backward it pays to pay attention.

  by TerryC
 
Does this include the BNSF 2099 GP38-2s as well?

keep asking keep learning

  by Chuck Walsh
 
The P2K SD 45 also has a screw above the truck.
Black screw heads, black chassis.
Also, the lead drive shaft has been known to slip out of the flywheel

  by Mike Roque
 
TerryC wrote:Does this include the BNSF 2099 GP38-2s as well?
According to Lifelike's website, they're from the same production, so I would guess they are both affected.