I disagree. My recommendation is to find the grayest, tarnished, non-rusted sections that you can - used - at a train show. You're going to pay 1/10th of what the new stuff costs, and you will have a superior product, in my opinion. I'm on my 3rd layout with the same track, basically. My first layout was put up with all very used track. I lightly wiped the track surfaces with Scotchbrite pads and never looked back ! Since then (1976), I have never cleaned my track in any way. I run my trains pretty much every day and the buffing action takes care of that (just like the real ones). My trains run smooth as a baby's behind on shiny sparkling rail heads. The rest of the track realistically looks tarnished and discolored. I have worked on a few new sections, primarily for making splices, etc. I have found that the new stuff that is coming out of China does not have the strength and durability of the old now tarnished stuff that was made in New Jersey. With the new stuff, the insulating pads are thinner and cheaper, the thickness of the tin-plate is thinner and lighter, and the construction is looser and not as solidly built. It's your money- do what you want with it. I can tell you that if you run your trains often and give them a relatively clean environment, you won't need to clean them after the first time. (On my lower (subway) level, I even intentionally only partially cleaned the rail heads, enjoying the slight arcing that was made as the wheels attempted their ground. Now, the cars have done their job- the rail heads are buffed like diamonds and there's no arcing !)
~Paul Joyce~
Moderator: Toy Trains, Model Railroading, Outdoor and Live Steam
Paul Joyce passed away in August, 2013. We honor his memory and his devotion at railroad.net.