• Converting an Amfleet car into a cab car

  • Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.

Moderators: 3rdrail, stilson4283, Otto Vondrak

  by Ken S.
 
peanut1 wrote:So I probably should remove it?
If you can.
  by peanut1
 
I'll open it up tomorrow and see if I can rip it out. If I can do that, I shouldn't have a problem with a genny pulling it?
  by Sir Ray
 
Peanut, it took me a while when reading this thread to realize that your problem was one of the couplers fell off car (at least I guess that's what you mean by hooks). Unlike the real world, tape is not necessarliy the best idea for parts under stress/tension (like coupler/coupler boxes) - even glorious duct tape will loosen and fail after a while in the real world. Not exactly sure of the situation, but when (not if) the tape fails and the coupler falls off again, in that case I would have plugged the screw hole in the car floor with a styrene (rod) sprue and plently of plastic cement (or, if the underframe is metal, you could use CA, or maybe even contact cement like Walthers goo, which can be surprizing strong.
Next, drill a hole in the sprue, tap it, and use that to hold the coupler box screw (I'm just guessing, you're requirements may be different, but in general plug/drill/tap is the usual process.
  by peanut1
 
Sir Ray,
I was able to fix the coupler and the box using elmers glue and hot glue. It's running good as new again and I haven't had a problem since.
  by Otto Vondrak
 
peanut1 wrote:Sir Ray,
I was able to fix the coupler and the box using elmers glue and hot glue. It's running good as new again and I haven't had a problem since.
Not exactly idea adhesives for making a plastic to plastic bond. There are plenty of plastic cements that you can use (sparingly) that will give you a much more stronger bond, with less mess than hot glue.

-otto-
  by green_elite_cab
 
I wouldn't even bother with it. Lifelike is of poor quality. The best way to do this, if you had to, is to remove the gears. I don't know how easy it would bee to open up the truck, but simply removing the motor will not do the trick. you need to at least get rid of the idler gears so that the axles are spinning freely. I have no idea how you'd take apart one of those trucks.

As for the passenger car, there is no need to fill it up with tape and hot glue. This is counter productive, and will be a real problem later if you need to take something apart. Glue can also screw with the weight and running characteristics, and tape doesn't hold forever.

It seems like you stripped the threads where the screws belong to. This is usually caused by over-tightening the screws that hold the body in (to a lesser extent, being yanked or forced). It is important to avoid tampering with these screws as much as possible. Plastic is soft and constant removal and insertion of the screw will eventually destroy the threads, even if you do not over tighten them.

There are two ways to fix this. Buy a slightly larger (maybe only the next size up) self-tapping screw, and screw that one in. Walthers sells these. It will resist at first, but once you screw it in all the way, you should be able to remove and intall the screw easily. Again, you should avoid doing this to much, only when necessary (such as lighting the car or adding weights).

the other option is to find a tube that is the about the right size for the screw, and drill a hole into your model large enough to accept the tube. You can then super glue and sand smooth the tube to wherever the new threads are needed (keeping the glue outside of the tube). A more resilient way to do this would be with a brass tube that is tapped for the screw you use, though this is probably not necessary.

Trust me, I've learned the hard way, i have every sort of amfleet you can get, a bunch of the Walthers horizon and viewliner cars, and they all have the same problem, especially the "used" ones, and ESPECIALLY around the coupler box covers.

.
  by peanut1
 
Thanks, unfortunatly the car I was going to convert took a nasty spill and I no longer have it. The body shaddered and the windows fell out and it was just a mess. I was able to salvege the interior and the seats as well as the red marker lights. Would I be able to put them into a walthers amfleet car?