by Tracer
3rdrail wrote:I like the accessability of your layout. I keep a step stool to get to the far reaches of mine, so I know how nice it is to have everything within reach. As far as your electrical bridge is concerned, the real McCoy's use some sort of a "tongue" arrangement which usually drops in place and makes a physical connection when preparing for operation. You might experiment with that. I've seen it done successfully on layouts and it is a common practice with overhead as well. Keep up the great work and keep us posted !Are far as accessability goes its a little tough reaching the back of the layout(its 3' wide). But it does leave more room to build the layout. When i first built the benchwork i built a 1-6"x7' peninsula in the middle of the room. It sucked walking between tight isles so i tore it out. Thanks for the encouragement!
Otto Vondrak wrote:Its tough for me to find time otto to put a model together the "right way"(i have 2 little kids, so finding time is tough). I spent 3 hours on my last model and truthfully it could have probably used 3 more. I don't mind putting buildings together, but the used buildings i've found online are for the most part cheaper and look better than anything i could build at this point.Triker wrote:Couple of rants I have:Depending on the complexity of the kit, it could take you three days... three weeks who knows. It takes time to carefully cut out all the parts, make clean fittings, wait for things to dry, paint carefully, etc. Of course, if you don't enjoy putting buildings together, then finding buildings already built is one way to go...
I am all done with "kit" buildings. I built a few on this layout and it always take me like 3 hours to put one together...
westr wrote:There are electrical plugs available you can use to get power to your liftout. They are called cinch plugs, and are available with different numbers of pins. Check electrical supply stores. Some hardware stores might have them and maybe Radio Shack as well. You can have them simply dangling under the liftout and have to plug them in separately after you put in the liftout, or you can get surface-mount ones and mount them so they will be aligned when the liftout is put in place. I would recommend wiring the liftout so when it is removed there is unpowered track for a couple of feet or so on either side as a failsafe.I do like the "cinch plug" idea. It seems simple and it only takes a few seconds to hook up the power each time. Its funny you mentioned a "failsafe" on either side of the bridge. I built the liftout about 2 weeks ago and twice i've almost sent 2 trains over the edge because i forgot to put the liftout back.
I will try and throw a few more pics on tomorrow.