Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Hello - I have three brass diesels and a steamer I'd like to paint for NYC. I've had these H.O. locos for many years, and now that I'm thinking seriously about painting them, I've noticed some corrosion or oxidation on the bodies. How should that be removed prior to painting? I've painted many plastic diesels and freight cars for NYC over the years, but never brass before. I used primarily Floquil paints and Champ decals and have had excellent results. Any advice anyone can provide for preparing and painting brass diesel and steam locos will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I've painted several brass steam locomotives and had good results doing the following:
1) A good quality airbrush is a must. Spray cans will never give you the degree of control that you need.
2) Practice masking using an old unwanted shell or piece of rolling stock. Nothing is worse than finding out that the paint has bled under a loose piece of tape.
3) Work from the lightest color to the darkest. It's nearly impossible to get good coverage with yellow paint over black or even red.
4) Nearly all brass has a clear or brass pigmented overcoat. It is your choice as to whether to remove it. I always do.
5) If you remove the overcoat, you will need to clean the raw brass and solder joints of any oxidation. I use a white vinegar soak and a distilled water rinse.
6) Use a primer coat. I use Floquil red for dark colors and gray for light colors.
7) I use Scalecoat paints because they dry to a gloss finish if properly applied.
8) I bake each coat for a smooth clear hard finish. I think it helps prevent chipping later on.
9) After I apply the decals, I apply a final clear coat (with Scalecoat) to seal them to the locomotive and then bake the clear coat.
If you remove the clear coat, you can also use a commercial metal blackener on handrails, steps and other protruding bits that are vulnerable to paint chipping. This makes chips a lot less visible and perhaps a little less likely to happen in the first place (the blackener etches the brass a bit).
I agree that an airbrush if mandatory. Next in importance would be ventilation. Make sure that you are getting rid of the overspray and the fumes. If you are breathing that you are in trouble. I have found that Paasche air brushes are easiest to use and maintain.
