Help with MBTA Kawaski bi-levels in N scale

Hi, all.

I got some prototypical MBTA bi-levels in N scale from IslandModelworks, but they are all unpainted shells. I was wondering how to get them painted and such. I had a few questions about this and how to make the MBTA bi-levels more realistic / authentic.

1. How do I paint the shells? I talked to a couple guys at the Springfield train show and they said that its hard to paint a resin shell. As I'm mainly a collector and buy already-painted and already-assembled train cars in N scale, I have yet to do any serious custom modeling or painting or stuff.

2. What kind of bogeys should I look for? The shells didn't come with bogeys or hooks. I need to use the Micro-trains / KATO type of hooks because I bought 2 KATO F40's that were painted in MBTA scheme at the 2009 Springfield show last year. They use the KATO hooks so I need compatibility with these Kawaski bi-levels, but I'm not sure what bogies can accomodate those. I've been having problems finding KATO hooks for Amfleet cars to go with my Amtrak P42's- I'm stuck with the Rapido hooks because apparently there aren't any KATO hooks long enough to be installed in Amtrak bogies.

3. I have poor microscopic vision, meaning I have a hard time seeing tiny objects. Because of that, my eye-hand coordination while handling tiny screws or plastic parts is rather hard. That's one reason why I haven't really gotten into custom modeling. The reason why I bought the MBTA Kawaski bi-levels is because there's nowhere else I can get them, and there's no ready-to-run Kawaskis in MBTA scheme in N scale. So I had to order them from IslandModelworks. I was wondering if there's any good modeling companies or businesses that can paint and do the delicate work on my MBTA shells?

If anyone has any tips, suggestions, or information, that would be greatly appreciated!

Painting and finishing is relatively easy, with some practice. If you have never painted before, practice on some cheap cars that you can scrap later. The trick is to take your time, use a good primer and finish coat, and take lots of time between coats to let them dry. There are several good books available that give you step by step instruction on how to paint and finish plastic models.

You could always hire a custom painting service to finish your models if you're not interested in painting at all. There's a few of them around the internet, their prices range based on the scope of work you want them to do.

Hope this helps!

-otto-

Veristek wrote:3. I have poor microscopic vision, meaning I have a hard time seeing tiny objects. Because of that, my eye-hand coordination while handling tiny screws or plastic parts is rather hard. That's one reason why I haven't really gotten into custom modeling. ................. I was wondering if there's any good modeling companies or businesses that can paint and do the delicate work on my MBTA shells?

If anyone has any tips, suggestions, or information, that would be greatly appreciated!

Otto has the right idea, I would recommend investing in or borrowing an airbrush for superior results, but you have one buzz line here; "I have poor microscopic vision, meaning I have a hard time seeing tiny objects." This changes things entirely. Forget about painting, the first problem is getting just a straight line with TAPE to paint the first color on anything.

I have worn glasses since I was in the 2nd Grade, like ALL of my friends, my vision seemed to utterly TANK when I hit 41, night vision is down to nearly zero and I used to be able to see like a cat. There are tools and magnifying gear to help, but the eye-hand coord issue is a tough skill to retain with aging. It costs extra money but there's nothing wrong with stimulating the economy with a custom paint job, and they don't cost as much as a Rembrandt.

My wife had a couple of pieces done by CENTRAL HOBBY SUPPLY in Syracuse NY, with more than satisfying results;

http://www.centralhobby.com/
CENTRAL HOBBY SUPPLY
102 Walter Drive
Syracuse, NY 13206

Phone: (315) 437-6630
Fax: (315) 437-3281
Email: [email protected]

ASK FOR "THUMBS", if he's still painting stuff. I've done mail order from these guys, the units painted were mailed back and forth without incident. I don't live anywhere near Syracuse, and where I live, I have found it virtually impossible to find anyone who paints plastic or metal scale trains.

Let us know what happens and what kind of estimates you get for the job as you shop around. Good Luck!

D/

Thanks for your tips.

Dieter, I'll look into that NY business and let you know what happens with them.

Otto, I don't have any spare or junk model cars lying around that I can use or practice on, and the only sources of new train stuff for me is the Springfield train show or ordering stuff online because there's no hobby shops in my area that deals in N scale trains (or any model trains for that matter).

Forgive me but I have to ask you.....

If you're having a problem with seeing small objects, why are you working in "N"?

Would it be possible for you to change to "HO" if this is an early stage? Believe you me, if I had it to do over again, when I began by selecting a gauge and accumulating inventory, had I known about the vision issue, I would have gone with "S" Gauge!

D/

Dieter wrote:Forgive me but I have to ask you.....

If you're having a problem with seeing small objects, why are you working in "N"?

Would it be possible for you to change to "HO" if this is an early stage? Believe you me, if I had it to do over again, when I began by selecting a gauge and accumulating inventory, had I known about the vision issue, I would have gone with "S" Gauge!

D/

Thats precisely what stopped me from going from HO to N. I thought about it when I was getting back into the hobby a couple years ago. But working in HO is sometimes difficult enough. I can only imagine my frustration in N...