How do you start an engine

I have a CRV wrench that I haven't used for 20 years...... A cheap pair of channel locks works well too.

G.A. .... Usually all the H2O drains out of the cyl at BDC into the air box and out the drian tube..

How does the water get in the cylinders ? . condensation ?

It leaks when the engine is shut down, EMD engines are basicly a big box with a cranckshaft with 12 or 16 individual power assemblies hanging in the box openings, the entire heap is tied together with pipes and slip joints with O rings, when engine cools off a lot of that stuff leaks

I though you needed a conventional key to start an engine (similar to a truck) and warm it up.

no no key

Oh ok, so how can it be done then, maybe as described earlier in this thread.

I think this tread has gone far enough, there is only so much a railfan needs to know and even if you ever needed it, they would properly instruct you.
for now stick to cars.

Send $19.95 for the complete guide!

On fallen flags site are engine manuals start studying, don't share the answers.

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/manual/manual.html

Jtgshu wrote:I thought the "self purging" feature of the loco meant that you didn't have to open the test cocks - or is this just an option on some locos? I was told the only time it would be necessary to open the test cocks would be if it was sitting for a LONG time dead or after heavy maintence.

You know, for about the first 10 seconds or so cranking when it goes REALLLLLLLLLL slow and then it changes and cranks slightly faster and then its time to play with the layshaft!!!

vroom vroom!!!

That's the new stuff. The "old way" of self purging, was to NOT prime the engine, and pull the layshaft all the way out, while cranking her over a few turns. No fuel means she won't fire, and any accumulated water should be expelled. After this, you can shove the shaft all the way in, until it fires, or go through a normal prime/crank cycle. I have two of those TCC wrenches, basically just a cast bar, with two prongs sticking out of it. Since the last guy to close the cocks most likely used a 3 foot pipe wrench, your TCC wrench is basically dead-weight, in the bottom of your grip. Or, a great candidate for the collectors, on eBay!!!

ExEMDLOCOTester wrote:I have a CRV wrench that I haven't used for 20 years...... A cheap pair of channel locks works well too.

G.A. .... Usually all the H2O drains out of the cyl at BDC into the air box and out the drian tube..

Unless the amount of water is greater, than the amout that will drain, in the brief period the piston is actually at BDC. TDC is where things are supposed to get "interesting".........

DutchRailnut wrote:I think this tread has gone far enough, there is only so much a railfan needs to know and even if you ever needed it, they would properly instruct you.
for now stick to cars.

I agree, I feel this topic has run it's course, so I'm gonna be closing it. Thank you all for your cooperation