Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Discussion related to everything about model railroading, from layout design and planning, to reviews of related model tools and equipment. Discussion includes O, S, HO, N and Z, as well as narrow gauge topics. Also includes discussion of traditional "toy train" and "collector" topics such as Lionel, American Flyer, Marx, and others. Also includes discussion of outdoor garden railways and live steamers.
Now, I know im way behind my time here, with DCC and all, but how does blocking work. I would like to operate main line trains while doing some yard work. I figure there would be an insulator of some sort but someone needs to fill me in here. (IM LOST!!!)
Moderator: Massachusetts Bay Transportation Authority, Brightline Trains Avatar:3679A (since wrecked)/3623B (now in service as 3636B).
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CRail
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by Otto Vondrak
Are you asking how to wire your layout for Digital Command Control, or just conventional DC?
With DCC, the blocks are only there to separate your layout into power districts- so if you have a short circuit somewhere, it doesnt disable the whole layout. You can have multiple trains in the same block without worries.
With DC, it's one block, one train. If you want to run more than one train at a time you need more power packs or "cabs" to do so.
Best bet: get yourself a book on wiring from your local hobby shop. Those books can explain a lot better than I can.
I just need to know how the blocks are separated. I know how the systems work and i was saying how far behind i was not even knowing how to block when DCC exists.
Moderator: Massachusetts Bay Transportation Authority, Brightline Trains Avatar:3679A (since wrecked)/3623B (now in service as 3636B).
Isolate each block by cutting a gap in both rails. This can be done at rail joiners by removing the metal joiner and substituting an insulated joiner.
or, cut the gap, and insert a piece of sytrene between the two rail ends, epoxy or ca the styrene, let it dry and smooth it to the rail contour.
I choose this method, even though I use DCC I have my railroad divided into blocks for troubleshooting purposes.
Bob
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atsfman
by CRail
sounds good. i will experiment with all of those methods
Moderator: Massachusetts Bay Transportation Authority, Brightline Trains Avatar:3679A (since wrecked)/3623B (now in service as 3636B).
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by dti406
It is also good for parking trains in passing sidings and makes it a lot easier to use signals and black detection devices. Again a good reference book used to be Kalmbach's How to Wire your Model Railroad.
Rick
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by Otto Vondrak
Plastic rail joiners are readily available and are the easiest to use. Cutting a gap and filling it with plastic also works, but is not needed unless you need the gaps to fall where there is no track joint.