P2K LIRR GP38-2

I just purchased this P2K gp38-2 on ebay. http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/920-31051" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.
I was wondering if anyone knows if the trucks and fuel tank are the correct color. The only pictures I've seen of these are sort of dark and can't tell whether the trucks and tank are black or if they really are the same color blue as the body paint. Also what color blue should I use to paint any detail parts this model will need to match the blue on this shell?

I would check http://www.trainsarefun.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; site for pics for the #271,1 item will be the ASC box under the
engineer's window on the short hood. That box almost reaches the step.
Paint matching LIRR blue will require a trip to a Hobby Shop to find a match,
or mix up a batch from blue paint by adding drops of white paint to the blue
till it matches the color.

Thanks for the tips backshops. I know the trains are fun site says to use Santa Fe blue so i'll try to track down that color and see how close it is. I have most of the details I need to complete this project from my NYA gp38-2 projects. I got the train in the mail today, here's a few pictures.

You might try Tru-Color paint,a NEW supplier in the'15 Walters Catalog(pgs876-877),
otherwise you are winding up creating a match from the Testor's Acryl paint,
Testors killed off floquil/polyscale.

Where do you find the ASC box. What company makes it.

Thanks i'll look into tru-color. I hate that Testors did away with them, I worked on a CSX gp15 and used their CSX color paints and they were perfect matches to the Athearn model I was using. Trying to match paint colors is a nightmare for me.

I got the ASC box from a member of another forum, he molded them himself and sent me a couple.

Thanks for the tip about tru-color backshop, I got an email from them saying they're coming out with LIRR colors around March or April next year so I'll just have to wait until then to finish it.

Now that's an interesting developement,a first time the correct MTA colors will be avaible as model paint.

Off topic but concerning the same model. Mine has a horrible gear box noise. I was able to get the shell off but the weight seems impossible to move. There are wires from the trucks to the electronics but the wires are very short. I think I need to lube the gearbox to quiet the noise but I cant get enough of the weight off to see the gears. The weight is able to move about a half inch or less off the frame and then there is no slack left on the truck wires. Any suggestions! Help!!

I forgot to mention my engine is a Life Like proto 2000 model

I actually have yet to run this engine so I don't know if it has the same noise problem as yours. I'll put together some track with a DC transformer (if I can find it) and see what happens.

P2K drives are Athearn clones,you should pop off the bottom cover and check for
cracked(split) drive axles,there's been times when the factory force fits the wheel on to
the axle gear and it splits,if it doesn't run at least fairly out of the box, check
the axle gears. Not sure of Athearn's part #, but the current axle gear used in the RTR
(ex-blue box,inside bearing) is a good replacement for cracked P2K axle gears.

The part number for the Athearn axle gear is ATH60024. They come six in a package and cost $6.98 per package.

Stuart

I ended up selling this engine on eBay about a week ago. I got contacted by the buyer and said he tried running the engine and it doesn't move. He said the headlights come on but the motor just hums and the more he turns up the throttle the louder the humming. Could this be caused by what you were talking about BackShop?

Yes,most likely all 4 axles have cracked/split,needing replacement.
This is the common problem of Lifelike P2K's before the Walters bought out Lifelike.
and continued till the 2nd run under Walters.
I have had 1 case of a "frozen" motor,after a axle swap however